If you have a clear idea of what you want to wear, commissioning a wedding dress gives you a say in everything from the silhouette to the last stitch. A bespoke studio develops the design with you, then builds it around your measurements over a series of appointments.
It’s a commitment of time, money and creative energy, so knowing how the process works helps. From decoding the terminology to finding a studio that gets your ideas, here’s what to expect.
What Does “Bespoke” Really Mean?
Bridal terminology can get confusing fast. Before you book, ask the studio exactly what it offers and how much input you’ll have. These are the main distinctions:
💖 Made-to-order: You choose an existing collection style, which is then made for you in a standard size, which you will then have altered so it fits you perfectly. You know the design you’re getting from the outset.
💖 Made-to-measure: An existing collection style is made to your individual measurements. This is also a form of made-to-order.
💖 Fully bespoke: The studio creates a design for you from scratch, developing it through conversations, sketches and fittings.
These services involve different levels of design work, so understanding which one you’re paying for matters. If you love a collection dress and want a few changes, customisation may give you what you want. If you want to develop the design itself, ask about full bespoke.
Know What Happens at Each Appointment
Every studio has its own approach, but most bespoke commissions follow a similar process:
1. The first consultation. You’ll talk about your wedding, the clothes you feel good in, fabrics you like and the mood you’re after. This is the time to explain what comfort means to you, too. The designer needs to understand the person who’ll be wearing the dress.
2. Design and sketches. The team turns those conversations into sketches and fabric proposals. You’ll work through the options together and refine the design.
3. The first fitting. Many studios make a toile, a test version in inexpensive fabric. This lets you see the shape on your body and make adjustments before anyone cuts into the final material.
4. Further fittings. Across several appointments, the team adjusts the fit and works through the details. This is where you see the design take shape on you.
5. Final fitting and handover. You’ll check the finished gown together, then take it home or arrange delivery.
Expect the process to take several months. Booking early gives you time to consider decisions and attend the fittings.
Find a Studio That Fits Your Ideas
If you’re looking for somewhere to start, these studios are all set up for design-led, made-to-order and custom work, each with its own strengths.
Danielle Frankel
Danielle Frankel offers several ways to commission a gown. You can order a style from the collection, either in a standard size or made to your own measurements. You can talk to the team about customising an existing style, which is considered case by case, whether that’s a different neckline, hand painting, a lace hem, a bubble hem, or lace appliqué. Or you can work with the Danielle Frankel design team on a full custom gown, developed through sketches and fittings. Every gown is made by hand in New York City, and the atelier designs and develops each one. Alterations are offered in-house, made-to-order pricing is published by style, and full custom is quoted at your consultation.
💖 Order a collection style in a standard size or made to your measurements
💖 Customisation considered case by case, from a new neckline to hand painting, a lace hem, a bubble hem, or lace appliqué
💖 Full custom developed with the design team through sketches and fittings
💖 Made by hand in New York City, with the option to do alterations in-house
💖 Made-to-order pricing published by style; full custom quoted at consultation
💖 Appointments in New York and Los Angeles, plus virtual consultations
Visit Danielle Frankel
Phillipa Lepley
The London couturier has been making true bespoke gowns since 1986, working from her Chelsea studio with a signature focus on corsetry and internal structure.
💖 Genuine bespoke couture, made in London
💖 Renowned corsetry and hand finishing
💖 A long-established, single-designer studio
💖 Based in Chelsea, London
Visit Phillipa Lepley
Ines Di Santo
The Toronto house is known for glamorous, ornate couture, and it offers customisation on its designs through a network of retailers and trunk shows.
💖 Glamorous, detailed couture gowns
💖 Customisation available on many styles
💖 A flagship in Toronto
💖 Available through stockists and trunk shows
Visit Ines Di Santo
Anne Barge
With flagships in Atlanta and New York, Anne Barge offers classic, elegant gowns with room for customisation, and pricing that starts more accessibly than much of the couture field, from around $3,700.
💖 Classic, refined design with customisation options
💖 Flagships in Atlanta and New York
💖 A more accessible entry price for couture-adjacent work
💖 An appointment-based experience through the flagships and stockists
Visit Anne Barge
Sareh Nouri
The New Jersey atelier makes romantic, made-to-order gowns with a signature use of bows and delicate detailing.
💖 Made-to-order gowns with a romantic sensibility
💖 Signature bows and fine detailing
💖 A dedicated New Jersey atelier
💖 Sold largely through stockists and trunk shows
Visit Sareh Nouri
Go to Your First Appointment Prepared
You can arrive with half-formed ideas. The first consultation is a chance to work through them with someone who knows how to turn them into a dress. A little preparation will help you get more from that conversation:
💖 Book early. Bespoke and made-to-order dresses usually take several months, and studio diaries fill up.
💖 Bring references. Gather images that capture the feeling you want, along with any fabrics or details you love. References from your everyday wardrobe can help explain your taste, too.
💖 Think about wearing it. Your venue and plans for the day will influence the design. Tell the team how you want to move and what you need to feel comfortable.
💖 Set your budget. Be clear about what you can spend and ask how alterations, customisation and extras are charged.
💖 Choose your company carefully. One or two people whose opinions you trust can be helpful. Keep the focus on what you want to wear.
Ask Questions Throughout the Process
A bespoke commission involves plenty of decisions and you should feel able to ask questions, flag concerns and say when something feels wrong. A studio that listens gives you the space to develop those ideas together. These are some of the practical questions worth getting straight before you commit.
How long does a bespoke wedding gown take to make?
Most bespoke commissions run somewhere between six and twelve months, depending on the design and the studio’s schedule. Starting early gives you room for the design stage and several fittings.
How much does a bespoke wedding dress cost?
It varies widely by studio, fabric, and the amount of hand work involved. Bespoke sits at the higher end, and most studios quote at consultation once they understand your design.
How many fittings will I need?
It depends on the studio and the design, though two to four is common for made-to-measure and bespoke work. The fittings are where the fit is shaped and the details are finalised.
What should I bring to my first appointment?
Images that capture the feeling you’re after, any fabrics or details you love, and shoes at roughly your wedding-day height. It also helps to have your venue and date in mind, since both shape the design.
Can I adjust the design partway through?
Studios expect a bit of refinement as the gown takes shape, and small changes during fittings are normal. Bigger changes are easiest early on, so it’s worth sharing any second thoughts as soon as they come up